How To Grow Calamondin (Citrus × microcarpa)

All about Calamondin

What is calamondin?   Ι   Appearance  Ι   What does calamondin taste like?   Ι  Nutritional information   Ι  Uses   Ι   How to harvest and store calamondin  Ι   How to grow calamondin   Ι  Where to buy calamondin   Ι  What’s the difference between calamondin and kumquat?  Ι   Recipes

What is calamondin?

Calamondin (Citrus × microcarpa), also commonly known as calamansi, Phillipine lime, China orange and calamandarin is a type of acid citrus, from the family Rutacea. The precise origins of calamondin are somewhat uncertain due to its long history of cultivation, but it is believed to have originated in China as a hybrid between a kumquat and a wild species of mandarin. The calamondin was likely carried by traders and travellers along maritime trade routes to other parts of Asia, including the Philippines where it remains hugely popular.

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Is Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum) Toxic to Cats?

Is peace lily toxic to cats?

Peace lily (Spathiphyllum spp.) is a perennial herbaceous plant native to the tropics of southeast Asia and Central and South America, specifically in regions like Costa Rica and Panama. This ornamental plant is popular as a houseplant for its glossy green leaves, white spathe flowers and ease of care. The ‘lily’ part of its common name refers to the flower’s resemblance to the white lily, a traditional symbol of purity. However, the peace lily isn’t a true lily, it belongs to the Araceae family, which also includes Monstera, Philodendron, Caladium, and Dieffenbachia species.

Other names:

  • Spath
  • White Flag
  • White Anthurium
  • White Sails
  • Mauna Loa Peace Lily (specifically for the Spathiphyllum ‘Mauna Loa’ variety)

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Exploring Psilocybin: The Mystical Molecule of Mushrooms

Magic mushrooms

Psilocybin is a naturally occurring psychedelic compound produced by certain species of mushrooms. It has psychoactive properties, which means it can cause changes in perception, mood, and cognitive processes when consumed. The effects of psilocybin can vary but may include euphoria, altered thinking processes, paranoia, dizziness, dilated pupils, closed and open-eye visuals, synesthesia, an altered sense of time, and spiritual experiences.

Psilocybin is most commonly found in mushrooms of the Psilocybe genus. There are over 150 species of Psilocybe mushrooms, most of which are small, gilled, with a conic to convex cap, and a nondescript brown colour. The distribution is worldwide, where they prefer a moist, forested environment or meadows. Psilocybe cubensis is the most common species of psilocybin mushroom and has a wide distribution including the southeastern United States, Central America (Belize, Costa Rica, Guatemala), the Caribbean (Cuba, the Dominion Republic, Guadalupe, Martinique, Trinidad), South America (Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Columbia, French Guiana, Paraguay, Uruguay, Peru), Southeast Asia (Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, Malaysia, India, Australia, New Zealand, Fiji).

The word ‘psilocybe‘ is derived from the Greek words ‘psilós‘ (ψιλός ) which means ‘bare‘ and ‘kúbe (κύβη) which means ‘head‘. This is a reference to the smooth cap of mushrooms within the Psilocybe genus.

Common names Psilocybe mushrooms

  • Magic mushrooms
  • Shrooms
  • Sacred mushrooms
  • Magic mushies
  • Caps
  • Liberty caps (a specific type of psilocybin-containing mushroom)
  • Blue meanies
  • Golden tops
  • Cubes (short for Psilocybe cubensis, a common species of psychedelic mushroom)
  • Boomers
  • Purple passion
  • Little smoke

Historical and cultural uses of psilocybin

Mushroom stones have been found in various Mesoamerican sites, notably in the Guatemalan highlands, dating back as early as the Preclassic period (around 2000 BCE – 250 CE), with many found from the Early to Late Preclassic period (1000 BCE – 250 CE). These mushroom stones are considered significant evidence of the historical use of hallucinogenic mushrooms in these cultures. The mushroom stones are typically made from jadeite, serpentine or basalt, and depict anthropomorphic or zoomorphic figures beneath a mushroom-shaped cap. The figures are distorted, which researchers believe is a representation of the hallucinatory effects of these mushrooms.

In Central and South America, there’s substantial evidence of their use in religious and shamanic rituals. Mushroom-shaped artifacts and glyphs have been found in Mayan and Aztec ruins in Central America, which suggests a spiritual or divine significance. The Aztecs referred to these mushrooms as ‘teonanácatl’, which translates to ‘god mushroom’, indicating their importance in religious and mystical ceremonies.

Present day use

Psilocybin mushrooms were introduced to the Western world in 1957 by a vice president of J.P. Morgan and amateur mycologist, R. Gordon Wasson and his wife Valencia. The Wassons travelled to Mexico in 1955 and participated in a traditional Mazatec ceremony and wrote an article published on May 13, 1957, in LIFE magazine titled ‘Seeking the Magic Mushroom‘. The following week, Wasson’s wife, Valencia published her own article in This Week describing her experiences with magic mushrooms.

The following year, Swiss chemist Albert Hofmann isolated the active compound in psilocybin mushrooms, which he named psilocybin. Interestingly, Albert was the first to synthesise and ingest lysergic acid diethylamide (LSD).

In the present day, indigenous groups in Central and South America, such as the Mazatec people in Oaxaca, Mexico, still use psilocybin mushrooms in spiritual and healing ceremonies. They’re typically used as sacraments to facilitate communication with the spiritual world, diagnose illnesses, or provide healing or insight.

Mechanism of action

When ingested, psilocybin is rapidly converted in the body into the active metabolite psilocin, the compound primarily responsible for the hallucinogenic effects. Dephosphorylation (removal of a phosphate group by hydrolysis) is facilitated by alkaline phosphatase enzymes which remove the phosphate group from the psilocybin molecule, converting it to psilocin.

Psilocin is a phenol compound that is an agonist (a compound that binds to and activates a receptor), for several types of serotonin receptors in the brain, in particular the 5-HT2A–serotonin receptor. Serotonin (also known as 5-hydroxytryptamine) is a naturally produced neurotransmitter often referred to as the ‘feel good‘ neurotransmitter which plays a key role in many functions including regulating mood, sleep, appetite, sexual desire as well as appetite regulation, pain perception and digestive system function.

The chemical structure of psilocin is similar to that of serotonin, allowing it to bind to and activate the 5-HT2A–serotonin receptors. This initiates a series of intracellular signalling events, leading to a variety of psychological and physiological effects.

The exact mechanisms through which the activation of 5-HT2A–serotonin receptors is not yet fully understood. However, it is believed that the effects are related to the modulation of neural activity and the release of other neurotransmitters, such as glutamate in various regions of the brain, including the prefrontal cortex and visual cortex. Changes in brain connectivity and neural network activity may also contribute to the altered state of consciousness.

Why do some mushrooms produce psilocybin?

The exact reason is not fully understood, but it is believed that it may serve to protect the mushroom from insects, snails or slugs that might consume the fungi. Many of these insects are also in direct competition with fungi for food (rotting wood, decomposing organic material). Psilocybin has been found to suppress the appetite in Drosophila fruit flies.

How are psilocybin mushrooms consumed?

  • Raw: The mushrooms can be eaten raw, however, the taste is commonly found to be bitter and unpleasant.
  • Mushroom tea: The mushrooms can be steeped in hot water to make tea. This method makes them more palatable to consume and may also reduce nausea, a common side effect of consuming psilocybin mushrooms.
  • Cooking: Psilocybin mushrooms can be used as an ingredient in food, often in soups, sauces or omelettes. The potency isn’t significantly reduced by cooking.
  • Capsules: Psilocybin mushrooms are dried, ground into a powder and put into capsules. This eliminates the unpleasant taste and texture of the mushrooms.
  • Microdosing: This method involves ingesting small amounts of psilocybin mushrooms, well below the threshold of psychoactive effects but is thought to enhance creativity and mood.

Bear in mind that the consumption of magic mushrooms is illegal in most countries.

Effects of psilocybin on the brain

Once converted to psilocin in the body, a range of physical and psychological effects develop within 20 minutes. Unlike common recreational drugs, psilocybin does not create dependence, however, people may experience psychological withdrawal.

Prefrontal cortex

One study found that ingestion of psilocybin decreased blood flow and neural activity in areas of the brain including the medial prefrontal cortex which is involved in complex cognitive behaviour such as personality expression, decision making and social behaviour. Volunteers whose brain regions were most inhibited reported the greatest level of hallucinatory effects. Researchers think this may be because inhibiting the prefrontal cortex ’causes the sense of self to be less active’.

Thalamus

The thalamus is a small structure located in the brain that processes and transmits sensory impulses from receptors to the cerebral cortex which is responsible for higher-level processes, such as memory, language, thought, decision-making, emotion, intelligence and personality. One study found that psilocybin reduced blood flow and neural activity in the thalamus which could lead to a decrease in normal filtering of information that the thalamus is responsible for, which could potentially allow more sensory information to be processed in other parts of the brain. The altered activity could contribute to sensory overload and distortions of perception such as intensified colours, sounds and emotions.

How long do the effects of magic mushrooms last?

Effects take approximately thirty minutes to develop and can last up to six hours. By 24 hours, it is not possible to detect psilocin in a person’s urine.

How is psilocybin metabolised?

After ingestion, psilocybin is rapidly converted into psilocin. This conversion is done in the liver by the enzyme alkaline phosphatase, which removes the phosphate group from psilocybin. Psilocin is able to cross the blood-brain barrier, interacting with serotonin receptors which leads to characteristic effects such as hallucinations, altered thoughts and emotions. The liver further metabolises psilocin by monoamine oxidase (MAO), an enzyme that oxidises psilocin into 4-hydroxyindole-3-acetaldehyde, which is further oxidised into 4-hydroxyindole-3-acetic acid. Both of these compounds are conjugated (joined together) with glucuronic acid, which increases their solubility. These conjugates are then excreted out of the body in the urine.

How does it feel to take psilocybin?

They can range widely depending on the dose, the strength of the mushrooms as well as the person’s size, tolerance, weight and overall health. The current mindset and environment in which the mushrooms are taken, referred to as ‘set and setting‘ also impact the effects. If a person is already anxious or is in an uncomfortable setting, they have a higher risk of adverse effects. Tolerance can build up in people who have repeated exposure to psilocybin.

Physical effects
  • Dilated pupils
  • Tachycardia (elevated heart rate) and hypertension (high blood pressure)
  • Nausea
  • Incoordination
  • Chills
  • Sweating
  • Numbness
  • Dry mouth
  • Muscle weakness, twitching or convulsions
  • Exaggerated reflexes
  • Loss of urinary control
Psychological effects
  • Sense of well-being or euphoria
  • Mood changes which can change from euphoria to fear and anxiety
  • Paranoia
  • Perceptual changes such as visual and auditory hallucinations (seeing or hearing things that aren’t there)
  • Spiritual experiences
  • Increased creativity

Risks and potential side effects

While death from an overdose of magic mushrooms is rare, taking them does come with risks.

  • Bad trips: One of the worst experiences when taking any hallucinogen is the risk of a bad trip. A bad trip is a negative emotional reaction to the effects of the drug which can seriously affect the user. Heightened anxiety, depression, fear, paranoia, and panic attacks are all effects of a bad trip.
  • Flashbacks can include visual distortions, emotional swings, and altered perception, which occur without warning. Triggers include stress, fatigue and the use of other drugs. Sometimes it is not always possible to identify a trigger.
  • Psychosis: In rare cases, psilocybin may trigger psychotic episodes in some people, especially if they are predisposed to psychotic disorders such as schizophrenia.
  • Hallucinogen persisting perception disorder (HPPD): Commonly referred to as ‘flashbacks’, some people can experience persistent and sudden recurrence of sensory or psychological experiences induced by the drug, days, weeks or years after the original drug use.
  • Incorrect identification of mushrooms: There is always the risk that the mushrooms you consume are not magic mushrooms, but other toxic species, which could potentially be deadly.

Psilocybin in medical research

Psilocybin has been gaining attention in medical research over the last two decades. The primary focus of this research has been on mental health disorders, such as depression, anxiety, post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD), and addiction.

  • Depression: A double-blind trial involving 59 participants was carried out by researchers at the Centre for Psychedelic Research at Imperial College London. The results found that psilocybin was at least as effective as a leading antidepressant (a selective serotonin reuptake inhibitor called escitalopram) in people with moderate to severe depression. The psilocybin group reported fewer cases of dry mouth, anxiety, drowsiness and sexual dysfunction than the escitalopram group.
  • Anxiety and depression in life-threatening illnesses: Researchers at Johns Hopkins University found that a single dose of psilocybin significantly reduced anxiety and depression, anxiety and mood disturbance, along with increases in quality of life and decreases in death anxiety, in patients with life-threatening cancer.
  • Smoking cessation: Another study at Johns Hopkins University found that long-term smokers with a history of failed attempts at quitting, found success after carefully controlled and monitored use of psilocybin. After six months, 80% of participants remained smoke-free, which is a staggering statistic compared to the 35%, six-month success rate of people who take varenicline, a drug widely considered to be the most effective smoking cessation drug.
  • Cluster headaches: A new study involving 14 participants who suffer from cluster headaches found that a low dose of psilocybin, taken three different times with approximately five days in between each dose alleviated headache pain or frequency in some, but not all participants.

Legal status around the world


Country

Legal status
Austria Legal
Australia Illegal
Bahamas Legal
Belgium Illegal
Bolize Illegal
Bolivia Illegal
Brazil Legal
British Virgin
Islands
Legal
Bulgaria Illegal
Cambodia Illegal
Canada Illegal Unenforced
Chile Illegal
Croatia Illegal Decriminalised
Cyprus Illegal Decriminalised
Czech Republic Illegal Decriminalised
Denmark Illegal
Estonia Illegal
Finland Illegal
France Illegal
Germany Illegal
Greece Illegal unless treated as psilocin
Hong Kong Illegal
Hungary Illegal
Iceland Illegal
India Illegal Unenforced
Indonesia Illegal Unenforced
Ireland Illegal
Israel Illegal (Illegal for personal
consumption)
Italy Illegal Decriminalised
Jamaica Legal for personal consumption
Japan Illegal
Laos Illegal Unenforced
Latvia Illegal
Lithuania Illegal
Luxembourg Illegal
Mexico Illegal (unenforced if in native
culture)
Moldova Illegal
Nepal Legal
Netherlands Legal as truffle
New Zealand Illegal
Norway Illegal
Phillipines Legal (ambiguous)
Poland Illegal
Portugal Illegal Decriminalised
Romania Illegal
Russia Illegal
Serbia Illegal
Slovakia Legal (ambiguous)
Slovenia Illegal could be treated as psilocin
South Africa Illegal
Spain Illegal Decriminalised for personal use in a private place
Sri Lanka Illegal
Sweden Illegal
Switzerland Illegal Decriminalised, possession is
punishable with a spot fine
Taiwan Illegal
Thailand Illegal
Turkey Illegal
Ukraine Illegal
United Kingdom Illegal
United States Illegal Decriminalised in Decriminalised in
Seattle, Washington; Ann Arbor, Michigan; Oakland and Santa Cruz,
California; Somerville and Cambridge, Massachusetts; Oregon; and
Washington D.C
Uruguay Illegal
Vietnam Illegal Unenforced

Source: Wikipedia

Here in Australia, from 1st July 2023, authorised psychiatrists will be able to prescribe psilocybin for treatment-resistant depression.

What is a Raceme?

What is a raceme?

A raceme is a type of inflorescence (flower cluster) characterised by an unbranched, elongated main axis (called a rachis or peduncle) where individual flowers bloom on short stalks called pedicels. Racemes are one of the most common flower structures in angiosperms (flowering plants).

Characteristics of a raceme

The defining characteristic of a raceme is its unbranched structure. Racemes feature a main stem, from which multiple flowers bloom on individual stalks. The flowers are usually evenly spaced along the stem to create a symmetrical pattern. Flowers at the base of the stem bloom first, and the blooming progresses upwards to the tip of the stem, where the youngest flowers are located. This sequential blooming is known as ‘acropetal succession‘.

Foxglove

The length of racemes and the number of flowers can vary depending on the plant species. Racemes can stand upright (foxglove) or droop downwards (English bluebell).

Flowers on a raceme bloom from individual buds at the base of each pedicel. Each bud blooms into a flower, starting with the base flowers, and continuing up the stem. In most racemes, the flowers are arranged in a spiral pattern around the stem, however, some may be arranged in opposite pairs.

Related: Difference between bluebells and hyacinth

The term ‘raceme’ comes from the Latin racēmus which means ‘cluster or bunch.

Types of racemes

The different types of racemose inflorescences are based on various factors related to their structure, growth pattern, and arrangement of flowers.

  • Simple raceme:  Each flower is attached to a single, main axis by its own stalk or pedicel.
  • Compound raceme: Made up of multiple smaller racemes (known as partial racemes or pedicels), attached to a central axis. Each partial raceme may further bear its own set of flowers.
  • Pedicellate raceme: Individual stalks or pedicels attach to the main stalk, but unlike a simple raceme, these pedicels are further attached to secondary axes or branches, resulting in a more complex branching structure.
  • Sessile raceme: Flowers are directly attached to the main axis without individual stalks or pedicels.
  • Corymbose raceme: A raceme that is characterised by a central axis producing multiple pedicels, each bearing a flower. These flowers are arranged in flat-topped or slightly convex clusters. All flowers reach approximately the same height which creates a visually appealing and symmetrical display. Examples include hawthorn and mountain ash.
  • Indeterminate raceme: New flowers develop at the base of the raceme as it continues to grow, resulting in a continuous elongation of the inflorescence.
  • Determinate raceme: The number of flowers is set in advance, and the growth halts once all the flowers have blossomed. Unlike indeterminate racemes, which continue to produce new flowers at the apex as the inflorescence lengthens.

Difference between a raceme and an inflorescence

Inflorescence refers to how flowers are arranged on a plant and encompasses various patterns and structures. Racemes are a type of inflorescence, but there are numerous other types of inflorescence such as spike, umbel, catkin, corymb, cyme and spadix.

Why is it important to understand racemes?

Racemes are an important aspect of botany as this inflorescence provides crucial information on the plant’s identity, growth habits and reproductive strategies.

Many plant species have characteristic inflorescences and recognising a raceme helps to identify a plant’s genus or species. The structure of a raceme plays an important role in a plant’s reproductive success. Racemes flower from the bottom to the top. This sequential blooming pattern maximises the plant’s chances of being pollinated over an extended period.

Basics of plant morphology

Plant morphology is the study of the physical form and external structures of plants. This involves understanding the roots, stems, leaves and flowers. Each component has a unique and vital role in the plant’s growth, reproduction and survival. For example, the roots anchor the plant and absorb water and nutrients, the leaves are the main sites for photosynthesis.

One of the key elements of plant morphology is the inflorescence, which refers to the arrangement of flowers on the plant. The structure and pattern vary widely among plant species. Some plants, such as a rose or a dahlia, produce a single flower at the end of a stem while other plants produce multiple flowers in clusters, spikes or racemes. The structure of the inflorescence plays a role in how the flowers are pollinated.

Which plants have racemes?

Examples of racemes

Plant Name Description
Foxglove (Digitalis spp.)
Tall biennial or short-lived perennial plant known for its long, bell-shaped flowers arranged in a raceme. The flowers are often purple, but can also be white, yellow, or pink.
Snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus)
A tender perennial known for its colourful, two-lipped flowers that are arranged along a tall, slender raceme. The flowers can be a variety of colours, including red, pink, orange, yellow, and white.
Wisteria (Wisteria spp.)
A genus of flowering plants known for their spring-blooming fragrant, pendulous racemes in purple or white.
Black locust (Robinia pseudoacacia)
A fast-growing deciduous tree known for its fragrant, white, pea-like flowers that hang in drooping racemes, its deeply furrowed bark, and compound leaves, often planted for its ornamental and timber qualities despite its invasiveness in certain regions.
Lupine (Lupinus spp.)
Known for their tall spikes of colourful flowers arranged in a raceme. The flowers can be blue, purple, pink, or white.
Delphinium (Deliphinium spp.)
A short-lived perennial and cottage garden favourite grown for its tall, showy, pink, blue or white flowers which bloom from spring t summer.
Lily of the Valley (Convallaria majalis)
A herbaceous bulb with sweetly scented, white, bell-shaped flowers that hang from a curved, unbranched raceme.
Dame’s rocket (Hesperis matronalis)
Clusters of fragrant, purple, pink, or white flowers arranged in a raceme. Blooms in the late spring or early summer.
Sweet alyssum (Lobularia maritima)
Small, fragrant flowers that are usually white but can also be pink or purple. The flowers are arranged in a raceme and bloom from spring to autumn.
Coral Bells (Heuchera spp.)
Tall, slender racemes of small, bell-shaped flowers that can be white, pink, or red. The flowers bloom in the late spring or early summer.
Lilac (Syringa vulgaris)
A deciduous shrub grown for its clusters of highly fragrant, purple or white arranged in large conical racemes. Lilacs flower in late spring and provide a rich source of
nectar for pollinators.
Bleeding heart (Lamprocapnos spectabilis)
A perennial plant with heart-shaped pink and white flowers that hang in a line from arching stems, blooming in spring and early summer.
Sweet pea (Lathyrus odoratus)
An annual climbing plant with highly fragrant flowers that grow in a wide range of colours, and are arranged in a raceme.
Horse-chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum)
A large deciduous tree with palmate leaves, showy upright racemes of white or pink flowers with yellow to red spots, and spiny fruits containing glossy brown seeds, often referred to as ‘conkers‘.
Hyacinth (Hyacinth spp.)
A bulbous perennial plant, with spike-like clusters of highly fragrant, bell-shaped flowers that grow in pink, purple, red, white, and yellow.

 

Variations within racemes across different species

All racemes share the same basic structure of an unbranched stem with flowers on individual stalks, there is still a great deal of variation within this form.

  • The racemes of snapdragon are dense, with closely packed flowers, while those of delphinium are looser and much more open.
  • The orientation of the raceme can also have variations. Wisteria has pendulous racemes, which droop or hang downwards, while those of a lupine stand erect.
  • Size and colour of flowers can also differ between species. Delphiniums have large, showy flowers that grow in several colours, while the flowers on a blackberry raceme are small and white or pink.

In summary, while the basic structure of a raceme is consistent, the specific characteristics can vary greatly between different species and cultivars, leading to a rich diversity of forms.

Other types of inflorescences

Types of inflorescence

  • Panicle: A panicle is a branched inflorescence with flowers arranged on secondary or tertiary stems called pedicels. Unlike unbranched racemes, panicles have a more complex structure. Examples of plants with panicle inflorescences include oats and rice.
  • Spikes: The flowers are directly attached to the pain stem without pedicels, to form a long, unbranched column. Examples include gladiolus and wheat.
  • Umbels: The umbel is made up of a number of short flower stalks (pedicels) that spread from a common point, similar to umbrella ribs. Flowers bloom at the same level, to create a flat, or convex shape. Examples include Queen Anne’s lace and fennel.
  • Corymb: A type of inflorescence in which the flower stalks grow upward from various points on the main stem to approximately the same height, to create a flat-topped or slightly convex cluster of flowers.
  • Cyme: A type of inflorescence where the central or topmost flower blooms first, promoting a broad, flat-topped flower cluster, which can be seen in plants like the bougainvillea, baby’s breath, and the common elder.
  • Spadix: A thick, fleshy axis covered in tightly-packed, tiny flowers, that is surrounded by a distinctive bract, as seen in plants like calla lilies, peace lilies, and anthuriums.

The role of racemes in plant reproduction

Lily of the valley flowers
Lily of the valley flowers

Racemes play a critical role in plant reproduction by holding and displaying the flowers, that contain the plant’s reproductive organs. The flower arrangement in a raceme makes the plant visible to pollinators. The elongated, and typically vertical presentation of the flowers stands out. In addition, the sequential blooming, which starts at the bottom and progresses upwards, provides a consistent source of nectar and pollen over an extended period, which increases the chance of pollination. Some plants with racemes such as lilac, English bluebells and hyacinth also produce highly fragrant flowers which attract pollinators.

Conclusion

  • Racemes are a type of inflorescence characterised by an unbranched main axis, with flowers that bloom sequentially from the bottom up.
  • This sequential blooming arrangement exposes each flower, increasing the chances of cross-pollination and genetic diversity.
  • Racemes can be found in many plant species including foxglove, wisteria, lilac, English and Spanish bluebells, snapdragon and lupine.

Understanding the function and structure of plant racemes provides valuable insights into the plant’s reproductive and survival strategies. The design maximises the plant’s reproductive potential and extends its blooming period. This can impact the ecosystem, by influencing biodiversity and distribution of plant species.

Recognising racemes also helps botanists with plant identification.

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Bluebells vs Hyacinth: What is the Difference?

What is the difference between bluebells and hyacinth?

Bluebells (Hyacinthoides non-scripta or Hyacinthoides hispanica) and hyacinths (Hyacinthus species) are subterranean bulbous perennials popular for their scented flowers that bloom in spring. All three species have, long, strapped leaves and bell-shaped flowers arranged on racemes. However, while bluebells and hyacinths share similarities, they are different species, which we will explore in this article.

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Houseplant Rescue: How to Revive a Neglected Houseplant

Reviving neglected plants

Houseplants offer a wide range of benefits to our homes. Their showy foliage and air-purifying qualities bring a touch of nature inside. However well-intentioned we may be, sometimes our houseplants suffer the effects of neglect. We will look at how to revive your neglected houseplants and bring them back to their full glory.

What is a houseplant?

What is a houseplant?
Photo by Julia Wilson.

A houseplant is usually a foliage plant that is grown indoors. Foliage plants are typically evergreen perennials with decorative leaves. Technically, all plants are outdoors, but houseplants are often grown in locations where they wouldn’t survive outside. For example, a plant native to tropical rainforests would not survive as an outdoor plant in the United Kingdom.

Common issues with neglected houseplants

Sometimes life gets in the way, sickness, holidays, family emergencies and our houseplants suffer from the effects of neglect. In most cases, it is possible to revive them if they are caught in time and still have a viable root system. It is important to mention that indoor plants should be checked at least once a week, preferably more often, so that any potential problems can be picked up early.

Yellowing leaves can occur for a number of reasons including nutrient deficiency (nitrogen, iron, magnesium, or sulphur), over-watering, under-watering, inadequate light, pests or disease.

Yellowing leaves
Yellowing leaves
Photo by Julia Wilson.
Nutrient deficiency

When a plant doesn’t receive a specific nutrient or nutrients, essential physiological processes are disrupted and it cannot perform functions efficiently. Nitrogen, iron, magnesium and sulfur can impact the production of chlorophyll and photosynthesis, resulting in leaf colour changes. Symptoms can vary depending on the nutrient involved. Plants will reallocate resources from older leaves to newer growth. So you may notice new growth appears normal, but older leaves are yellow.

pH imbalance

pH (potential of hydrogen) is a measure of acidity or alkalinity and plays a critical role in nutrient absorption. Each plant has unique pH preferences, however, most plants thrive in soils with a pH range of 6.0 to 7.0. pH imbalances interfere with the uptake of nutrients, resulting in deficiencies. Acidic soils (pH below 6.0) can limit the availability of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium while in alkaline soils (pH above 7.0), iron becomes less soluble and less available for plant uptake. This can lead to iron deficiency, causing interveinal chlorosis, where the leaves turn yellow while the veins remain green.

Overwatering

Constantly waterlogged soil becomes impacted which means there are fewer air pockets in the soil that are needed for the roots to uptake oxygen needed to respire and function properly. Without adequate oxygen, roots can become weak, stressed, or die. Root rot is a common problem in waterlogged soil as it creates a favourable environment for pathogens such as Pythium spp. that attack plant roots, impairing their ability to take up water and nutrients needed for healthy growth.

Underwatering

Insufficient water leads to dehydration and stress. The plant is unable to transport essential nutrients needed for critical physiological processes. Plant cells lose turgor pressure, which causes them to wilt and eventually turn yellow. Prolonged underwatering causes nutrient deficiencies, weakened root systems and reduced growth and vigour.

Inadequate light

Inadequate light leads to a reduction in chlorophyll production and photosynthesis. The plant struggles to produce energy required for growth and maintenance through photosynthesis. Chlorophyll can break down in the leaves to reallocate resources to other essential processes or new growth. Yellowing due to inadequate light typically starts with the lower and inner leaves, which receive the least amount of light. Etiolation may occur, as the plant tries to reach a source of light. The internodes elongate, producing a leggy plant.

Pests or disease

Spider mites, whiteflies, nematodes, viral and bacterial diseases can all impact leaf colour. Insects feed on plants or sap, causing yellowing and or wilting of the leaves. Root-knot nematodes are tiny worms that feed on plant roots, which impairs its ability to absorb water and nutrients. Bacterial leaf spot or bacterial wilt damage plant tissues, block the vascular system and ultimately disrupt nutrient and water transport within the plant. Viral infections such as mosaic viruses or yellow vein viruses, can cause yellowing leaves due to the disruption of normal plant cell functions and the alteration of chlorophyll production.

Brown tips and edges

Brown leaves on a variegated Monstera
Photo by Julia Wilson.

Overwatering: As mentioned above, overwatering can lead to hypoxia and root rot, which starves the plant of nutrients. From personal experience, the leaves of overwatered plants tend to slowly turn dark brown at the edges.

Underwatering

When a plant doesn’t receive adequate water, it is unable to maintain photosynthesis, transport nutrients, regulate temperature, maintain turgor pressure and cellular respiration. Plant cells lose water and wilt, which causes them to turn brown and dry out. Prolonged underwatering leads to widespread desiccation and browning of the leaves and eventually die.

Leaf scorch

Also known as ‘leaf burn‘, leaf scorch occurs when a plant is exposed to too much sunlight or heat which burns the leaves. Plants at greatest risk include seedlings, shade-loving plants and variegated plants. As you can see in the photo above, the white part of the leaves was scorched, but the green edges are fine. This plant has since been moved to an outdoor conservatory with less direct sun, and away from my plant-eating puppy. I have heard people mention the use of silicone for variegated plants, but it’s not something I’ve looked into. Some people swear it protects the white parts (which have little to no chlorophyll) and produces stronger leaves.

Salt accumulation

Salt accumulation can occur due to over-fertilisation, the use of softened water, and evaporation in low-humid environments. Excessive salts cause osmotic stress, nutrient imbalances, and root damage and can make it more difficult for plants to take up water and nutrients. Common symptoms of excessive salts include leaf burn, browning or yellowing.

Wilting or drooping

One of the most common symptoms of an unhappy plant is drooping leaves which surprisingly is a sign of overwatering or underwatering. When a plant is well hydrated, water within the plant cells exerts pressure against the cell walls, which creates ‘turgor pressure,’ which is essential for maintaining the plant’s rigidity. Surprisingly, overwatering and underwatering have the same effect on the plant. When the plant is overwatered, the roots are starved of oxygen due to air pockets being compacted. So while the soil is wet, the roots are unable to transport water throughout the plant. Obviously, in the case of the under-watered plant, there is not enough water in the soil to maintain hydration and turgor.

Heat

Sometimes even hydrated plants will wilt on extremely hot days due to increased transpiration and the temporary inability of the plant’s water uptake system to keep up with water loss. The roots absorb water through the soil which is transported through the xylem to the rest of the plant. During extreme heat, the water uptake is not sufficient to replace the water lost through transpiration. This leads to a decrease in turgor pressure, causing the leaves to wilt.

Leggy growth

Leggy growth is almost always due to insufficient light. This triggers the elongation of cells at the growth tip to help the plant reach a potential light source. As a result, the plant has uncharacteristically long and thin internodes (the space between nodes) as well as fewer, smaller and cream/yellow leaves that would ordinarily be green.

How to revive your neglected houseplants

How to revive leggy houseplants
Photo by Julia Wilson.

Check for signs of disease or pests

Carefully examine the plant for signs of disease or pests. Look for visible pests and eggs on the plant or soil. Examine leaves for discolouration, spots, wilting, curling, honeydew or webbing. It is important to remember to check the underside of leaves where pests like to hide undetected. Inspect the stems for lesions, oozing or cankers.

If you do notice any signs of pests or disease, take a clear photo and seek advice from your local nursery or garden centre. They will be able to advise you on what product (if any) to use.

Check for root rot

Remove the plant from the pot and inspect the roots for root rot and parasites. Healthy roots should be creamy-white. Plants with root rot will have brown/black roots, which are soft and break away easily. You may also notice an unpleasant odour.

It can be difficult to save plants with root rot, but in some cases, it can be successful if the plant still has some healthy roots. Rinse the roots with lukewarm water to remove any remaining soil and then use a pair of sterilised scissors to remove all of the diseased roots. Combine a solution of 80% water and 20% hydrogen peroxide, or 10% unscented bleach and 90% lukewarm tap water, and leave the roots and stem to soak for two hours. This should kill off any remaining pathogens on the roots. Hydrogen peroxide is better than bleach, and bleach should only be used in an emergency. Repot the plant in a new pot (or sterilise the old pot), with fresh potting mix.

Root rot
Note the black root which was easily squashed

Trim back leggy stems

If the plant is a seedling, it may be possible to revive it by moving it to a brighter area. Mature plants that are etiolated will need to be trimmed back, or take cuttings from the parent plant and start again.

Clean the leaves

Dust accumulation on leaves can obstruct sunlight, hindering photosynthesis, and clogging stomata, impeding respiration and transpiration. Regularly cleaning leaves not only improves the plant’s ability to produce energy and exchange gases. Use a soft, damp cloth to clean the leaves. Garden centres and nurseries also sell leaf tonics and leaf-shining products. Don’t do as I did in the 1980s and use petroleum jelly or any other oil-based product to shine the leaves. This will block the stomata which are tiny pores on the surfaces of leaves, that facilitate gas exchange.

Refresh the growing medium

Houseplants should have their potting medium replaced at least every two years.  As plants grow, they absorb nutrients from the potting medium to support their growth and development. Over time, the supply of nutrients in the potting medium becomes depleted. In addition to this, watering also causes nutrients to leach out of the potting medium, particularly if it is well-draining. Excess water washes away soluble nutrients, making them less available for plant uptake.

Always select the appropriate potting medium for your plants. For example, orchids prefer a bark mix, succulents like well-draining soil and most ferns like rich, moisture-retaining soil. Where possible, choose premium mixes over regular, as these contain slow-release fertilisers to keep your plant fed for at least six months.

Check to see if the plant is rootbound

Remove the plant from the pot to check if the plant is rootbound or has root rot. If the plant is potbound, don’t be tempted to jump up several sizes as overpotting can lead to root rot. For small to medium plants, choose a pot that is 2.5 cm wider than the current pot, or 5 – 10 cm for large plants.

Rootbound plant

Water according to the plant’s specific needs

There is no one-size-fits-all when it comes to watering plants. Succulents can go for extended periods without water, while the fern or coleus have higher water needs. I use the Sustee Aquameter to check the moisture content of soil. Knowing the needs of each plant is important too. Some are forgiving and will wilt when they’re thirsty, but quickly recover. I personally find ferns are a bit more fussy, they thrive in my garden, but quickly die inside. Many people have managed to successfully grow ferns as houseplants.

Provide proper lighting

The right light is so important. Cacti and succulents thrive in full sun, while other plants would quickly burn and die. As a rule, there’s three types of indoor positions.

  • Full sun:  An area the plant receives direct sun for at least six hours or more. Cacti and succulents love full sun.
  • Indirect light: Bright, diffused light close to a window but not in direct light. The majority of houseplants fall into this category.
  • Shade: A location where the plant receives minimal direct sunlight and is mostly exposed to low or filtered light. ZZ plant, pothos, ferns and snake plants are all shade-loving.

Remove dead or dying leaves

Remove dead or dying leaves
Photo by Julia Wilson.

Removing dead leaves improves its appearance, enhances air circulation, prevents pest and disease infestation, and makes it easier to monitor the plant’s overall health.

Conclusion

  • Indoor plants take time and work, but with the right care, can add a touch of colour to the home.
  • Only keep the number of plants you can comfortably manage. There’s no point in creating an indoor jungle if you don’t have the time for it.
  • Busy people may benefit from growing easy-to-care-for plants such as zz plant, snake plant, spider plant, yucca, orchid, dracaena and rubber tree.
  • Take five to ten minutes, twice a week to check your plants to ensure they are pest free, have enough water, and are not showing signs of disease. I always like to check my plants when I’m having my morning coffee.
  • Fertilise plants during their active growing period of spring and summer.
  • Plants should be repotted at least every two years to replace old potting mix and move to a larger pot if needed.

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Propagating Spider Plants: A Comprehensive Guide

How to propagate spider plant

Types of propagation  Ι   Encouraging a spider plant to grow more spiderettes   Ι  What happens if I leave spiderettes on the plant?  Ι   Common propagation issues   Ι  Conclusion

Propagation is a great way to increase your plant collection for free. Propagation methods can vary depending on the parent plant, which we will outline in this article.

What is spider plant?

What is spider plant?

Spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) is a clump-forming herbaceous perennial that is native to tropical and subtropical Africa. This hardy plant has attractive green and white striped variegated leaves.

Spider plants are a hugely popular houseplant that looks especially attractive when placed in hanging pots, so the strap-like leaves and spiderettes can cascade down the side of the pot.

In addition to their hardy nature and ease of propagation, spider plants are non-toxic to humans and pets, which makes them a safe option for families.

Spiderette formation
Spiderettes on a stolon
Spiderettes on a stolon. Photo by Julia Wilson.

Mature plants produce spiderettes (also called plantlets or pups), which are baby spider plants. Spiderettes form on long, arching stems called stolons. The stolon grows outwards from the base of the plant, and as it lenghtens, apical buds develop along its length. Apical buds contain meristematic tissue that differentiates into different plant tissues. At the tip of the stolon, the meristematic tissue starts to differentiate into a baby spider plant by forming leaves and adventitious roots (roots that form from non-root tissue). The spiderette can either be left on the plant or removed and discarded or propagated to create more plants.

Formation of a root on a spiderette
Formation of a root on a spiderette. Photo by Julia Wilson.

Types of propagation

Cluster of spiderettes
A large cluster of spiderettes. Photo by Julia Wilson.

The propagating spider plants are division or rooting spiderettes, either by placing the spiderette attached to the stolon directly the into soil, cutting the plantlet off and planting it into a pot with soil or placing it in glass of water, or removing the plant from its pot and dividing it and planting the divisions.

Propagating spiderettes

Spider plant 'plantlet' with established roots.
Spider plant ‘plantlet’ with established roots. Photo by Julia Wilson.

Spiderettes are small offshoots that grow on the spider plant as a part of its natural reproductive process. These offshoots are an essential feature of the spider plant, as they provide an easy method of propagation. Spiderettes emerge from stolons or runners, which are long, thin stems that grow from the parent plant. The spiderette consists of a small rosette of leaves, and as it matures, roots develop. In the wild, as the spiderette grows, gravity pulls it to the ground, where it will take root.

Spider plant plantlets
Spider plant plantlets. Photo by Julia Wilson.

Spiderettes can be placed in water or soil, the method for both is almost the same. I prefer to plant directly into soil as the roots should already be established and therefore water rooting isn’t necessary. However, water propagation can be beneficial if you have a plantlet without an established root system. If the parent plant is yours, you can wait for roots to develop, if you’ve been given a plantlet without roots, water propagation is the way to go.

Method:

Select healthy spiderettes, with a visible root system.

Spider plant roots
Photo by Julia Wilson

Snip the plantlet from the runner, where you snip is unimportant, I’d snip it as close to the plantlet as possible.

Cutting a spider plant pup from the stolon
Photo by Julia Wilson

Prepare a pot with premium potting mix and use your finger to make a hole wide enough to fit the plantlet.

Placing a spider plant plantlet into a pot.
Photo by Julia Wilson

Backfill to ensure the plantlet roots are covered and press down to remove any air pockets.

Freshly potted spider plantlett
Photo by Julia Wilson

Ensure the soil remains moist but not saturated.

Notes:

Root systems:Spiderettes that do not have an established root system typically require 2 to 3 weeks to develop roots. During this period, it is essential to provide proper care, including adequate moisture, light, and warmth, to promote healthy root growth and ensure successful establishment.

Water propagation: If propagating in water, place the plantlet into a glass of water on a windowsill. It should receive bright but indirect light. Roots should develop within 2 to 3 weeks, it may take longer during winter. Once a healthy root system has developed, transfer the plant to a prepared pot with soil. Spider plants grow better in soil than water as soil contains more nutrients.

What size should the plantlet be before you cut it off?Spiderettes should be around 10 cm (4 inches) before cutting, this will ensure the plantlet has developed roots, which will speed up the propagation process.

Division

If there are no spiderettes on your mature spider plant, you will have to divide it instead. This method requires a little more work than the plantlet method. Always wear gardening gloves when handling soil or potting mix.

Method

  • Water the spider plant thoroughly a few hours before dividing it to ensure the roots are well-hydrated.
  • Carefully remove the plant from the pot, take care to not damage the delicate roots.
  • Examine the root ball for natural divisions or clusters of leaves with their own root system.
  • Use your hands to gently separate the rootball into natural divisions.
  • Place the individual divisions into a freshly prepared pot with a premium potting mix. The roots should be completely below the soil.
  • Water in well.
  • Place the plants in bright but indirect light.

The divided sections should establish themselves in a few weeks as healthy, independent plants. Monitor their growth and adjust watering and care as needed to ensure optimal development.

Encouraging a spider plant to grow more spiderettes

A happy and healthy spider plant will naturally produce platelets when it is large enough.

  • Always select a premium potting mix. Premium potting mixes are made from quality ingredients and contain a slow-release fertiliser that will feed the plant.
  • Plant in a pot that is 2.5 cm (1 inch) wider than the root ball. A hanging planter is recommended, to allow the arching leaves, stolons and spiderettes to naturally cascade down.
  • Spider plants prefer bright but avoid direct light which will scorch the leaves. Having said that, the spider plants featured in this article are located in an east-facing position (which receives a small amount of morning light), in front of large bamboo plants, so they don’t receive optimal light.
  • Spider plants have moderate light requirements, it is better to under water than over water which could lead to root rot. I have found spider plants to be quite forgiving. They will wilt when the soil is too dry, but quickly recover once they have received a drink.
  • Water your spider plant when the top 2.5 cm (1 inch) is dry. The frequency of watering will vary depending on the heat and the season. Water more often during hot weather and less often during cool weather. As a guide, I water my potted spider plant twice a week in the summer and once a week during the cooler months.
  • Fertilise your spider plant with a liquid or slow-release fertiliser. Always follow the instructions on the pack. Spider plants do best with a balanced fertiliser of 20-20-20. That is equal parts of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium).

What happens if I leave spiderettes on the plant?

Should you cut the spiderettes off the parent plant?  Spiderettes left on the parent plant will continue to grow and develop their own root system. They are able to draw nutrients and water from the parent plant via the stolon to which they are connected. Leaving spiderettes on a spider plant is not harmful to the parent plant.

To remove the spiderettes, simply snip the stolon with the plantlet attached as close to the parent plant as possible. You can either discard them or propagate them to increase your plant collection.

If the plantlet roots come into contact with soil, they will establish themselves as an independent plant in the ground. Under the right conditions, plants can continue to grow and form a large mass of spider plants and spiderettes. The image below of my spider plants shows just how much they can spread. This collection came from two purchased spider plants I had to move outside because the cats kept chewing and damaging them (they’re non-toxic).

Large collection of spider plants
Photo by Julia Wilson.

In some cases, if the roots of a spiderette come into contact with the soil, they will establish themselves in the ground, forming a new, independent plant. This can lead to a tangled, dense growth of spider plants, as multiple plants share the same space and resources.

Common propagation issues

Spider plants are one of the easiest plants to propagate and care for. However, sometimes problems develop with newly propagated plants.

Root rot:

Root rot can develop if the plant is overwatered. When soil becomes waterlogged, the excess water fills the spaces between soil particles that would otherwise contain air. These air pockets are essential for plant roots, as they provide the oxygen necessary for root respiration and nutrient uptake. As the roots are unable to obtain enough oxygen, they slowly suffocate.

Slow or stunted growth:

Growth problems can develop for several reasons. Inadequate light, insufficient nutrients or unsuitable temperature levels. Plant in bright but indirect light, such as a short distance from a window. Use a balanced fertiliser during the active growing season (spring and summer), and maintain temperatures between 18°C to 24°C (18°C to 24°C).

Yellowing or browning leaves:

Yellowing or brown leaves can occur due to under-watering or too much sunlight which will scorch the leaves. Fertilise with a balanced fertiliser and repot once every one or two years in a fresh potting mix.

Conclusion

  • Spider plant propagation is easy via division or cutting spiderettes from the parent plant and placing them in soil or water.
  • It can take 6 – 12 months for the plant to reach a good size after propagation and up to two years before it is large enough to produce spiderettes.
  • Propagating plants is a great way to increase your plant population and provides free plants to keep or share with friends and family. Other easy-to-propagate plants include Boston Fern, String of Pearls, Snake plant, ZZ plant, Pothos, Dieffenbachia, Mini Monstera, Syngonium and Peace Lily.
  • I recommend always keeping a few plastic pots from purchased plants as well as a collection of terracotta pots and potting mix so that you are always ready to propagate.

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Heuchera (Coral Bells): The Colourful Perennial

Heuchera

What is Heuchera?  Ι   Appearance  Ι   Native habitat  Ι   How does Heuchera get its colourful leaves?  Ι   Planting and care  Ι   Uses   Ι  Propagation   Ι  Toxicity

At a glance

Family: Saxifragaceae
Botanical name: Heuchera species
Native to: The Americas
Common names: Heuchera, Coral bells, Alumroot,
Lifespan: Evergreen tree
Mature height: 30 – 45 cm
Type of plant: Herbaceous perennial
Flower colour: White, greenish-white, cream, pink, fuchsia, coral, red
Leaf colour: Green, caramel, orange, red, silver, purple, silver, variegated
Stem colour: Green, red, burgundy, purple, bronze
Bloom time: Early summer
Soil: Well-draining, fertile, and humus-rich soil
Humidity: Low
Propagation: Cuttings, division, seeds
Care level: Easy

What is Heuchera?

What is Heuchera?
Photo by F. Delventhal, Flickr.

Also known as coral bells, rock geranium or alumroot, Heuchera spp. (pronounced HUGH-ker-ah) is a clump-forming, herbaceous evergreen or semi-evergreen member of the Saxifragaceae family.  It is native to Northern USA and Mexico and consists of 55 species and dozens of cultivars. Heuchera is widely grown in gardens for its attractive ruffled, colourful foliage and delicate bell-shaped flowers which grow on long spikes. The foliage is found in a wide variety of colours including green, red, champagne, purple, orange, apricot, bronze and silver with contrasting veins.

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Unveiling Convallarin: The Secret of Lily of the Valley

Lily of the valley

What is convallarin?

Convallarin is a crystalline cardiac glycoside found in lily of the valley. Cardiac glycosides are a type of plant toxin that primarily affects the function of the heart. These compounds are characterised by their steroid-like structure (aglycone) bound to a sugar molecule (glycone).

Cardiac glycosides are plant steroids that are derived from the linear triterpene squalene. All cardiac glycosides have one of two ring structures that are connected to the steroid core at a particular point. Plants produce these secondary metabolites to protect themselves against herbivory.

All parts of lily of the valley are toxic, including the leaves, stems, flowers, rhizomes and roots. The highest concentration is in the rhizomes and roots.

What is lily of the valley?

Family Asparagaceae
Botanical name Convallaria majalis
Common names Lily of the valley, European lily of the valley, Our lady’s tears, May bells, Mary’s tears
Leaf colour Green
Flower colour White and pink
Toxicity Toxic to humans, dogs, cats
Toxic properties Cardiac glycosides and saponins
Toxic parts All parts (highest concentrations are in the rhizome and roots)
Flower meaning Purity, happiness

Lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis) is a cardioactive herbaceous perennial in the family Asparagaceae that is native to Europe. Its natural habitat is deciduous and mixed woodlands, where it thrives in cool, moist, and shady environments. The plant was introduced to North America by European colonisers and remains a popular ornamental plant. Lily of the valley has since become naturalised in the northeastern and north-central regions of the United States, as well as in eastern Canada, where it can be found growing in shaded, moist woodland areas.

Lily of the valley is a popular garden plant, that is used as a ground cover in shady spots. It is extremely easy to take care of and is resistant to almost all pests and diseases. The plant prefers well-drained, humus-rich, and slightly acidic to neutral soils. Lily of the valley spreads easily by rhizomes known as ‘pips‘, forming a dense mat.

The attractive and highly fragrant nodding blooms are frequently used in wedding bouquets and in perfumes and scented products. Catherine, Princess of Wales used lily of the valley in her wedding bouquet.

Convallarin is only one of the 40 cardiac glycosides found in lily of the valley. Convallatoxin is considered the most potent, with similar properties to as digoxin (in foxglove) and ouabain (in climbing oleander). Ingestion may occur when the leaves of lily of the valley are mistaken for wild garlic (Allium ursinum), which has a similar appearance but is edible.

Wild garlic leaves
Wild garlic leaves

In addition to cardiac glycosides, lily of the valley also contains saponins. Saponins are naturally occurring compounds characterised by their amphiphilic structure (a molecule that has both hydrophilic and hydrophobic properties) that allows them to form soapy froths when mixed with water. Ingestion generally leads to gastrointestinal symptoms such as nausea, vomiting and diarrhea.

Lily of the valley is the national flower of Finland and Serbia.

Identification

Identification of lily of the valley

Flowers:
Lily of the valley flowers
Lily of the valley flowers

Lily of the valley produces nodding, bell-shaped blooms from early to mid-spring. The flowers grow on arching stems 15 – 30 tall with one or two leaves and a raceme.  A raceme is a type of inflorescence (a cluster of flowers arranged on a stem). In a raceme, flowers are attached directly to the main stem, called the rachis, by individual stalks known as pedicels. White is the most common colour, however, there is a pink variety that is sometimes available.

Berries:
Lily of the valley berries
Lily of the valley berries

Small, vibrant red-to-orange berries that develop from the dainty, bell-shaped flowers in late summer and early autumn, are visually alluring and add a pop of color to the plant’s elegant, arching stems.

Leaves:
Lily of the valley leaves
Lily of the valley leaves

The upright leaf blades are 10 – 20 cm long and 2.5 – 5 cm wide with an elongated, elliptical or lanceolate shape. The edges of the leaves are smooth, and their surfaces are glossy and slightly veined. Leaves emerge from an underground rhizome to form a basal rosette around the flowering stem. Typically, they appear in pairs, with each leaf connected to the stem by a sheath-like base that is described as ‘clasping‘.

Use in herbal medicine

Lily of the valley has a long use in traditional medicine to treat cardiac, diuretic, emollient (skin softening) and laxative properties.

Mechanism of action

Convallarin binds to the alpha subunit of the sodium-potassium Na+/K+-ATPase pump located on the outer membrane of cells. The Na+/K+-ATPase enzyme actively transports three sodium ions (Na+) out of the cell and two potassium ions (K+) into the cell. When convallarin binds to the Na+/K+-ATPase pump, it inhibits the enzyme’s activity, reducing its affinity for potassium ions and increasing its affinity for sodium ions. Intracellular sodium levels increase, which causes a decrease in the activity of another ion transporter, the sodium-calcium exchanger (NCX), which typically exchanges one calcium ion for three sodium ions. The increase in intracellular calcium leads to an increase in the force of the contraction of the heart, known as ‘positive inotropic effect’. The increased intracellular calcium also stimulates the parasympathetic nervous system, specifically the vagus nerve, which acts to slow down the heart rate.

The heart is the primary target of convallarin, however, the Na+/K+-ATPase pump is also present in other cells in the body at lower concentrations. This means convallarin can also affect other body systems including gastrointestinal and neurological.

While convallarin’s primary target is the heart due to its influence on the sodium-potassium ATPase pump in cardiomyocytes, the pump is also present in other cell types throughout the body, albeit at lower concentrations. This means that convallarin can also affect other organ systems, leading to gastrointestinal and neurological symptoms.

Convallarin stimulates the smooth muscles in the gastrointestinal tract which increases their contractility resulting in enhanced activity. Neurological symptoms are due to convallarin crossing the blood-brain barrier, a highly selective semipermeable barrier formed by specialized endothelial cells lining the brain’s blood vessels, which regulates the passage of substances between the bloodstream and the brain. By inhibiting the sodium-potassium Na+/K+-ATPase pump in neurons, neuronal excitability can develop.

Clinical signs

The toxic effects of lily of the valley ingestion may be over-emphasised. One study found out of 2,639 cases of ingestion, only 6.1% reported symptoms and three showed severe side effects. Having said that, ingestion should be taken seriously and medical care sought. Early intervention can help prevent further absorption and reduce toxicity.

Gastrointestinal

  • Anorexia
  • Nausea
  • Drooling
  • Vomiting
  • Diarrhea
  • Abdominal pain

Cardiac

  • Arrhythmia (irregular heartbeat)
  • Bradycardia (slow heartbeat)
  • Collapse
  • Cardiac arrest

Neurological

  • Confusion
  • Dizziness
  • Seizures
  • Lethargy
  • Headache
  • Weakness

First aid

  • If you, a family member or a pet have ingested any part of lily of the valley, call your local emergency number or poison control centre. You will be asked about the person’s age, weight, symptoms, and details about what was ingested, including the type of plant, the part consumed, and the estimated amount. Do not induce vomiting unless you are instructed to do so by a healthcare professional.
  • Rinse the mouth to remove any remaining plant matter.
  • Bring a sample of the plant to help healthcare professionals identify it.

Diagnosis

There is no specific laboratory test to detect convallarin itself. Diagnosis is based on a history of lily of the valley ingestion along with presenting symptoms and a diagnostic workup.

Treatment

There is no antidote to convallarin toxicity and treatment is aimed at the prevention of further absorption as well as managing clinical signs. Symptoms typically last between 1 – 3 days.

  • Gastric decontamination: If ingestion was recent, the healthcare provider can induce vomiting to help remove the plant matter from the gastrointestinal tract. This will be followed by the administration of activated charcoal to bind to any remaining plant matter.
  • Supportive care: Intravenous fluids may be initiated to treat or prevent dehydration, manage electrolyte derangements and help flush any remaining toxins from the body. Medications such as lidocaine or atropine for arrhythmia.
  • ECG monitoring: Healthcare professionals will monitor the heart with an electrocardiogram, which records the electrical activity of the heart.

English vs French Lavender: What is the Difference?

Difference between English and French lavender

What is the difference between English and French lavender?   Ι  English lavender  Ι   French lavender  Ι   Which lavender to choose    Ι Conclusion

English and French lavender are two of the most popular and widely cultivated species of Lavandula. These scented plants are commonly grown in cottage gardens for their vibrant colours and fragrance. Despite their shared genus, English and French lavender have several different characteristics.

English lavender is somewhat misleading as it originated from the Mediterranean region. The name ‘English lavender‘ is thought to be due to its widespread cultivation and popularity in English gardens and its use as a perfume, particularly among royalty and nobility.

Related: What is the difference between English and French lavender?

What is the difference between English and French lavender?

Difference between English and French lavender


English lavender

French lavender
Scientific name Lavandula angustifolia Lavandula stoechas
Common names English lavender, common lavender, true lavender, garden lavender French lavender, topped lavender,
Fringed lavender, Spanish lavender
Native region Mediterranean region, primarily in the
mountainous zones of Spain, France, and Italy
Mediterranean region, predominantly
found in Spain, Portugal, France, Italy, Greece, and North Africa
Flower shape Spike-shaped with small, tubular
flowers
Pinecone-shaped with larger, showier
flowers and bracts
Flower colour Violet (blue-purple) and white Purple, pink and white
Flowering time Early to late summer Late spring to early summer
Height 30 – 60 cm 30 – 100 cm
Leaf colour Silvery-green, narrow leaves Green to grey-green
Scent Strong, sweet and floral – classic lavender scent French lavender has a higher camphor level than English which gives it a stronger ‘piney’ scent
Essential oil content High, used extensively in perfumery
and aromatherapy
Lower, less commonly used for oil
production
Cold hardiness USDA Zones 5-9 USDA Zones 8-10 (less cold-hardy)
Drought tolerance Moderate to high High
Common uses Ornamental gardens, hedges Ornamental gardens, container plants,
dried flower arrangements
Culinary uses Used in a wide range of culinary
applications including baking, teas, syrups, liqueurs
Generally not used as a culinary herb
Medicinal uses Traditional medicinal uses for relaxation, sleep aid, and soothing minor burns and skin irritations Less commonly used for medicinal
purposes, but may share some properties with English lavender
Growth habit Compact, dense and bushy Looser and more open growth
Companion planting Pairs well with roses, salvia, and other sun-loving perennials Pairs well with drought-tolerant,
Mediterranean plants like rosemary, sage, and thyme

 

English lavender

English lavender

Also known as true or common lavender, English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) has been cultivated in the British Isles since the Roman era. The Romans recognised the benefits of lavender for its antiseptic, insect repellent, cosmetic, and culinary properties. The aromatic fragrance of English lavender was used by the Romans in bathwater, hence the name ‘lavender‘ which is derived from the Latin word ‘lavare‘, which means ‘to wash‘. Queen Elizabeth

To this day, English lavender is widely cultivated for its essential oils and fragrant flowers and is used extensively in aromatherapy, massage oils, candles, perfumes, soaps and as a linen and room spray. The fragrant flowers are used in the culinary world and impart a unique floral taste. English lavender can be used to create lavender-infused honey, jams, syrups, buttercream, teas and baking.

  • Flowers: English lavender flowers are typically deep purple, but can also be pale lilac or white. They are arranged in dense, terminal spikes that form cylindrical or conical flower heads. The flower spikes are held on erect, leafless stems that rise above the foliage.
  • Fragrance: English lavender flowers have a delicate, floral scent with sweet overtones and a hint of rosemary. The fragrance is described as relaxing and soothing and the buds are used in aromatherapy, perfumes, candles, food and beverages and beauty products.
  • Leaves: The leaves of English lavender are lanceolate, sometimes with a slightly broader base. The bright green colour of the leaves may have a silvery sheen due to the presence of fine hairs, which also give the leaves a slightly fuzzy texture (known as pubescent linear leaves). These leaves are oppositely arranged on the stems, growing in pairs directly opposite one another and attached directly to the stem without a petiole (leaf stalk). The edges of the leaves are smooth, without teeth or serrations, and the leaves also possess a pleasant, sweet fragrance.
English lavender leaves
English lavender leaves. Photo by Julia Wilson.
  • Uses: English lavender remains popular among gardeners. It is drought-tolerant, fragrant, and attractive to pollinators. It fits well in cottage, herb and Meditterean-style gardens. As an avid gardener and lover of lavender, English lavender is my personal preference. I love the simplicity and the fragrance of English lavender flowers and grow them in my herb garden.

French lavender

French lavender

Also known as ‘toothed lavender and Spanish lavender‘, French lavender (Lavandula stoechas) is native to Spain, Portugal, France, Italy, Greece, and North Africa and is grown for its decorative ruffled purple flowers. While French lavender also has an aromatic scent, it is less sweet than that of English lavender with camphorous notes.

  • Flowers: The flowers are made up of multiple, cone-shaped flowerheads (known as a spike) with showy bracts (modified leaves) at the tip. Each flower consists of a calyx (bud), corolla (petals), stamen and pistil. The calyx is the outermost part which consists of small, leaf-like structures to protect the developing flower. The corolla is made up of petals, that are typically purple but can also be found in pink and white.
  • Fragrance: French lavender flowers have a slightly different aroma to English lavender. The scent is stronger and more pungent, with a sweet and floral scent that is accompanied by more pronounced herbaceous and woody notes. Some people describe the scent as being sharper and more camphorous and earthy than English lavender.
  • Leaves: The leaves are slightly narrower than those of English lavender, elongated, with a silvery-green colouration and covered peltate trichomes which produce and store essential oils. Fine, soft hairs, give the leaves a velvety texture (pubescent linear leaves). These hairs help protect the plant from water loss and intense sunlight, as well as give the plant its characteristic greyish-green, silvery appearance. The hairs found on lavender leaves are non-glandular and do not produce or store any essential oils.
  • Uses: French lavender is a popular ornamental flower in the garden, adding long-lasting colour and its characteristic odour. Unlike English lavender, French lavender is rarely used commercially for its scent.

Which lavender to choose

Which type of lavender to grow?

The choice between English and French lavender is personal. In my opinion as a lover of lavender, the French is far showier and makes a great choice for a decorative garden bed or in terracotta pots to add some colour to decks and patios.

From a price point of view, lavender plants are relatively inexpensive, and both types cost around the same amount. I love the simplicity and the fragrance of English lavender but generally grow both types in pots on the deck as well as in the ground near my vegetable patch to attract pollinators and add some colour. Interestingly, I’ve never had luck growing English lavender from seed, but the French lavender I currently have is self-sowing everywhere, not that I mind free lavender plants.

Both lavender varieties make great hedges but can become woody, so will need a hard prune once a year to keep them in shape.

Lavender flowers make great cut flowers and their beautiful floral scent will fill the room.

Conclusion

  • English and French lavender are both popular plants grown for their attractive flowers and aroma.
  • French lavender has showy flowers, while English lavender has less showy flowers, but a sweeter and more appealing aroma.
  • English lavender is used for its scent in beauty products, aromatherapy and in the food industry.
  • Both English and French lavender are great additions to the garden or deck and will reward you with months of beautiful flowers.